Our grand plan to live with separate host families last week was partially successful. Per assignment of our Cuenca Spanish school, I lived with my host “mother” Carmita and her adult son Diego in a small complex of about a dozen town houses (of which five were occupied by Carmita’s relatives). Peter lived in the same complex, a stone’s throw away, with his host “parents” Juliana and Pablo and their two boys. Pablo is Carmita’s son. So it was all in the family and we were together more than planned, but we still had separate time to practice Spanish and forge new relationships.
During our first homestay evening, Peter and I came along with our respective host families to a program called “Alpha,” a discussion series on the Christian faith. “Alpha” was started by the Church of England with the goal of attracting new members to the church, and has offerings in a “Catholic context.” The discussion topic for the first day: “Does God heal?”
Carmita is a devout Catholic whose days are devoted to church activities and to cooking meals for Diego (her adult son), the Catholic University students who typically (but not currently, as school is not in session) board at her house, and the occasional foreigner from one of several Spanish language schools in the area. Carmita loves Americans and reminded me often that she very much wants to marry one!
Peter bonded right away with his family. They are a warm, fun-spirited, and welcoming bunch.
Toward the end of the week I began to spend more time with Peter’s absolutely delightful host family. There, we felt comfortable joining in the cooking and family life. As a result, we could purchase and cook vegetables, which are not a big part of the typical Ecuadoran diet despite the lush land and abundant produce markets. We also contributed plenty of wine and ice cream!
Saturday was the highlight of our homestay week. We shopped with Juliana, and then we (well, mostly Peter) prepared a big feast to thank the family for their hospitality. Carmita and Diego were also invited, but they were unable to attend.
Juliana’s brother and his family were in town, adding to the festive spirit.
After gorging ourselves, we spent many wonderful hours talking and even dancing. Juliana has the moves!
This was a good week for Spanish language progress, especially (IMHO) for Peter. Our teachers at Amuata Spanish school were top-notch, readily adapting their instruction to our needs and interests. At the end of the week, they teamed up and announced they were taking the two of us to receive a “limpia,” or spiritual cleansing, from indigenous elders who come to the Mercado 10 de Agosto every Tuesday and Friday.
The “limpia” included a non-painful but forceful beating with herbs, a bit of aromatherapy, a spray of water to the face, abdomen and lower back directly from the healer’s mouth, the marking of our foreheads and lower backs, and finally an assessment of our energy using an egg. Peter says he was a little uncomfortable when the healer placed the huevos near his huevos!
We were directed to wait for sunset and sunrise to wash the limpia marks off our faces and bodies in order to lock in the good energy. But I wasn’t able to comply fully, because I attended another Alpha meeting that evening with Carmita, who confirmed that I should clean my forehead first. Just another clash of faiths!
We are staying in Cuenca (and remaining enrolled with the Amuata school) for another week. Though we hope to see our host families during the week, we have moved to our own place: an old house right in the historical center of town, impeccably designed by its owners, who live in Milan. The Italian influence is readily apparent. Though it’s large enough to accommodate a big family, we rented the house for less than the cost of a Motel 6 back home. Still it’s a bit of a splurge.
We are right in the center of the city, but just down a steep city staircase is the lovely Parque de la Madre and a long path for walking, running, biking, and site-seeing along the Tomebamba River.
On Sunday afternoon, the vibrant and peaceful Parque de la Madre, located at bottom of a flight of stairs one block from our Airbnb house, was chock full of children playing, people working out on public exercise equipment, impromptu basketball games, and families taking it all in. Ecuador takes public health seriously, and people of all ages take advantage of the city’s exercise equipment, which can be found in parks throughout Cuenca.
Between Spanish and spending time with our families, our first week in Cuenca did not afford us much time to take in the sites. During our final seven days here, we hope to explore the “Athens of Ecuador” more extensively.
